EDITOR’S PICKS: 10 Best Collections From Lakme Fashion Week

Meriam Ahari|06.FEB.2017

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As we check off the first fashion week of the year, it dawned on me that 2017 is giving us a lot to look forward to. Not just the styles setting precedence for what we’ll be dropping our hard-earned paychecks on this season, but also the powerful message that was spread via fashion’s most influential platform—Lakmé Fashion Week. Multiple shows kicked off with movies or installations addressing one issue all women can relate to—the freedom to dress uninhibited, without worrying our shorts might warrant unwanted attention or our tank top will create a negative association (just check out the hashtag #notwhatiwear).

Summer/Resort collections called on reoccuring themes of layering, anti-fit silhouettes, transparent fabrics, and a whole lot of floral appliqué. Other trends having a major moment on the catwalk were shades of blue, flared styles, scene-stealing accessories, and opting for flats over heels (yay!).

As per usual, the vibe at Lakme was mellow, drawing forth crowds that dressed not to impress (as they do at AIFW), but instead presented their easygoing threads, punctuated with an elaborate nose ring here or interesting brooch there.

Here’s a look at my top 10 favourite shows from Lakme fashion week:

1. Am.It by Amit Aggarwal

This “Seamless” collection was by far my favourite at LFW, fulfilling any expectations I had of the designer who has been compared to Alexander McQueen (although this line was more reminiscent of Balenciaga). Extreme, dramatic, and inventive best describe this medley of pleated midi skirts, voluminous cape coats, trapeze jackets, flared gilets and wide leg culottes layered over one another. Fabrics included handwoven silk Chanderi, nylon mesh, tapestry and faux leather. The designer’s unconventional styling of metallic red, blue, green and gold leggings with each ensemble worked surprisingly well against the already rich palette (wine, rust, teal, olive, mustard, and ink blue), adding even more intrigue to each look. Amazingly enough, the sustainable line was constructed from restored Patola saris. You have to check out the hair which was also wrapped in upcycled metallic wires. Such a mélange might appear overwhelming and nonsensical. However, this collection came together seamlessly—Well played, Amit.

AM.IT by Amit Aggarwal X Lakme Salon at Lakme Fashion Week SR17

2. Nupur Kanoi

A very close second was Nupur Kanoi’s “Lost and Found in Africa” which was conspired from African tribal crafts like body tattoo, painting, and piercing, and then integrated with Indian influences. Other pieces alluded to an entirely different 1920s glam reference, but all went together quite nicely. These lavish fabrics were adorned with colourful glass beading and metallic embellishments. In addition to the sari, were interesting silhouettes like a kaftan-jumpsuit, sharara-jumpsuit, and oversized kite jacket. The colours lay on opposite sides of the spectrum with tribal looking black and red tie dye verses luxurious fabrics in a watery purple-grey shade.

Nupur Kanoi at Lakme Fashion Week SR’17

3. Chola

Sohaya Misra presented deconstructed ensembles in organic cotton, gajji silk, and linen. The anti-fit silhouette reigned strong with easy drapes in mostly black and white. Pinafores and elongated gilets were layered over frilly, flouncy tops and bibbed yokes. Feminine blouses were also paired with roomy palazzo pants.

Chola at Lakme Fashion Week SR ’17

Chola | LFW SS17 Fittings

Chola at Lakme Fashion Week SR ’17

4. Madsam Tinzin

Madsam Tinzin unveiled “Brok-Pa,” a collection inspired by a tribe of mountain dwellers in Ladakh. Roomy patio pants, breezy tops, relaxed tent dresses, and airy capelets made for the perfect summer go-to. Beachy styles in transparent and solid fabrics were presented in invocable ombré hues (check out the first image).

Madsam Tinzin at Lakme Fashion Week SR ’17

5. Payal Singhal

If you’ve ever read “Death On The Nile” by Agatha Christie, you know that it entails some drama, and that is exactly what Payal Singhal brought to LFW. Drawing inspiration from the dark murder mystery, Payal Singhal created 1930s silhouettes and altered them to carry her signature influences. Set to the soundtrack of La La Land, models wore tunics, kaftans and jackets in dusky shades that featured elegant beading and Art Deco embroidery. Love the low crotch dhoti pants seen here!

Payal Singhal at Lakme Fashion Week SR ’17

6. Ritu Kumar

Inspired by “Maharaja Pop,” the collection boasted “rich” fabrics of velvet and vintage crepe that were embellished with intricate beading. Ritu Kumar scored with multiple offerings of this season’s most popular jacket: the bomber (like the one seen on showstopper Vaani Kapoor). Eccentric prints and a bold colour palette (grey, blue, metallic silver, and an orangey-red) gave this serious military look a funky rock and roll vibe.

Ritu Kumar at Lakme Fashion Week SR ’17

7. Urvashi Joneja

Wordly fashionistas will love Urvashi Joneja’s “Boundary” collection displaying international styles in vibrant shades and juicy summery prints. What makes these effortless styles so great is that they can easily be worn from day to night, with nothing but a simple change from flats to heels. Amazing to think this saturated palette was created using vegetable dye and block printing from Gujarat.

Urvashi Joneja at Lakme Fashion Week SR ’17

8. Tarun Tahiliani

In our interview with Tarun Tahiliani during LFW, the designer described his collection as “light, frothy, and extremely cool.” Which was pretty accurate, but he neglected to mention incredibly refined. Just take a look at the button down high collar silk shirt paired with a voluminous brocade lehenga. You can expect Tarun’s usual heavily embellished glitz in his “Chashme Shahi” collection. With such a range of colour, silhouettes, and styles, there was literally something for everybody. And although chic is a term often overused (and misused at that), there is no word more fitting to describe the sartorial assortment.

Tarun Tahiliani at Lakme Fashion Week SR’17

9. Vrisa

Love was in the air at Rahul and Shikha’s “Bagh-e-Gul” collection inspired by Persian gardens. Old-world charm in the form of peplum tops, kurtas, and anarkalis, were presented in natural fabrics and romantic prints (in ivory, indigo, and earthy brown). My favourite detail was the delicate lace along pant hems. It was fitting that the models wore baby’s breath tucked into braided updos and carried picnic baskets filled with flowers and wide brimmed hats to shade themselves from the sun.

Vrisa at Lakme Fashion Week SR’17

10. Ekam

Armaan Randhawa presented “Into the Wild” for his second time showing at Lakme Fashion Week. The designer applied traditional embroidery techniques to western silhouettes. The line included wearable styles like dresses with pleated yokes, embroidered trousers, trench coats with floral appliqué, and striped tunics. The simple palette of black, ivory, olive, beige, navy, and red worked in his favour.

Ekam at Lakme Fashion Week SR ’17

Grand Finale: Anita Dongre

The closing show of Lakmé Fashion Week SR17 was held at Bandra Fort. The ethereal collection unveiled a dreamy fusion of local and western monochrome designs (mostly white, save for a few in cream, pastel blue, or pastel pink). Sheer fabrics were adorned with whimsical, ornate embroidery. Held in a romantic enchanted garden setting of sorts, it was an arresting visual display. Besides showstopper Kareena Kapoor, the star of the show were these regal shoes!

What was your favourite collection from LFW? Tell us in the comments below!

Alexander McQueen Amit Aggarwal Anita Dongre Chola Ekam Fashion Fashion Week Kareena Kapoor Khan Lakme Lakme Fashion Week