My Bangladeshi boy was most thrilled to do this review, read on (and drool) xoxo
A couple of weeks ago we had the pleasure of sampling the Taj Lands End’s special “Bengali Odyssey,” a celebration of Bengali food hosted in the hotel’s Masala Bay restaurant. As a native Bangladeshi, I am always excited at the chance of revisiting the flavours and memories of my childhood. What made this meal particularly memorable, however, was the inclusion of delicacies from both West Bengal and Bangladesh, clearly delineated but equally celebrated in the week-long special menu. Adding further enjoyment to our meal was Chef Sujoy Gupta‘s obvious enthusiasm for the cuisine, and the personalized lunch menu he promised would highlight the best of both Bengals.
To open, Chef Sujoy served up a variety of appetizers from West Bengal, including the Narkel Postor Bada (fried coconut and poppy seed patty), Kasundi Beckti Fry (fried Beckti fish marinated in green chillies and pickled mustard) and the Mochar Chop (spiced banana flower with cumin, ginger and peanut). Expertly prepared, these opening items immediately captured the subtle yet unique combination of flavours that immediately distinguish Bengali food from other South Asian cuisines. From the Bangladeshi side, we were treated to an outstanding Dhaka Smoked Illish (Hilsa fish). Wonderfully smoky with a deep tomato and soya flavor, this one did not linger very long on the plate and instantly showcased why Hilsa is king in Bengali cuisine.
For the main course, we were treated to a generous spread of regional dishes which, in true family style, we piled high onto our plates and enjoyed at our own pace. Among these, the Kosha Mangsho (lamb with red chilli and coriander) and Luchis stood out, as the rich, flavorful gravy paired wonderfully on the freshly fried bread. Close behind were the Pabnar Murgi (chicken curry) and Palangshager Chorchori (garden vegetables and spinach in paanch phoron), along with the Echorer Dum Masala (jack fruit in rich onion gravy).
Unfortunately, the classic Chingri Malai Curry (prawns in coconut gravy) did not fare as well, and was one of the few dishes that tasted more fusion-y than authentic. Fortunately, Chef Sujoy indulged us with perhaps the most quintessential of all Bengali fish preparations, enjoyed by both East and West – the Bhapa Illish (hilsa steamed in mustard poppy seeds). Served in generous pieces and covered in fragrant mustard marinade, this is one dish that’s worth the battle against the hundreds of tiny bones scattered throughout the oily, succulent flesh.
Presented with desert, we made the rare decision to take a pass. Although Bengalis are famous for their milk and sugar based sweets, none of us at the table had a sweet tooth quite developed enough to eat more than a spoonful of the otherwise well made Doodh Rassogolla (sweet cottage cheese in cardamom flavored milk) and Misti Doi (sweet yoghurt).
By the end of our meal, there was little for us to do but slump back in our chairs and be grateful for yet another lazy Sunday. If we were to have one complaint, it would have to be the fleeting nature of the festival – even after such a monumental meal, there was plenty left on the menu we would have loved to sample. This is one Odyssey we wished wouldn’t end – and one we hope to see back in Mumbai very soon.