Christian Dior has become the first fashion house to present a haute couture collection without a named couturier, following the unceremonious removal of British designer John Galliano. This was the first Dior Couture collection not designed by Galliano in 15 years. A successor has not yet been named, so it was with bated breath that the small audience of fashion insiders waited to see who would take to the stage Monday for a post-show bow. The man who emerged was Bill Gaytten, a fellow Briton who was Galliano’s longtime right-hand man.
Gaytten was named artistic director at Galliano’s signature line, John Galliano, last month, but Dior executives were quick to stress that he hadn’t taken the reins at Dior, one of the world’s top brands and the jewel in the crown of luxury giant LVMH.
The show seemed to bear the hallmark of being designed by several hands. The 36 outfits were inspired by 1950s silhouettes and 1970s west coast hostesses and the showstopper was a ballgown-wearing Pierrot clown by way of Frank Gehry and Grace Jones.
“We are used to being eclectic,” explained Gaytten after the show, a statement which seemed to hint that Dior without Galliano was already getting back to business as usual. Backstage he namechecked the Italian designer Ettore Sottsass, who was part of the early 1980s design movement the Memphis Group, famed for their furniture and textiles featuring fluorescent colours gimmicky plastics and daring patterns. This influence could be seen in the pastel organza layered skirts which looked as if they were embroidered with giant Dolly Mixture sweets, topped off with glossy cube-shaped headpieces . Striking, but not entirely tasteful. Did it have the finesse and grandeur we’re accustomed to seeing at Cristian Dior Haute Couture year after year? We don’t think so.
Galliano was sacked in April for very serious allegations of racial and antisemitic abuse. A long drawn court case followed, after which he returned to rehab following his appearance in court. The verdict will be delivered in September after the court has its summer recess. Said a source close to the designer: “He is medically very frail as his body comes to terms with the withdrawal from all of his addictions – but he felt yesterday was fair; that everyone understood he has been very ill, poisoning his body with a cocktail of alcohol and pills for so long that when he was out of control and truly knew nothing about his behavior. He maintains he is a man who encompasses every race and religion in his personal life and through his creative designs – and that the outbursts are that of a mad man, and not the views he holds.”
Galliano’s friends stand by him through this tough time as Kate Moss clearly showed, wearing a Galliano gown on her wedding day.