I love Indian-Chinese food. With such a variety of flavours and so many shared base ingredients, it is in many ways fusion cooking at its best (who said good fusion is the exclusive domain of “haute cuisine”?) Every once in a while however, I crave some honest-to-goodness, authentic Chinese food that that hasn’t been congealed in corn starch or marinated in one or more of “Ching’s Secret” sauces (I lovehate you, Ching.) Enter Hakkasan, whose arrival by way of London has been as long awaited as it has been understated (ok, call it the best worst kept secret in town.) While most reviews of this latest outpost on Waterfiled Road in Bandra have raved about the decor and luxurious sprawl, it was the food that made us sit up and take notice. We admired the sleek bar in the Ling-Ling Lounge and the high ceilings of the main dining room, but were otherwise nonplussed by the white marble tabletops and heavy blue accent lights. But we were here to eat and so we dove right in…with drinks.
DRINKS
We were surprised by the number of friends who raved about Hakkasan’s drinks menu, but it didn’t take long to understand why. The cocktails we sampled were inventive and refreshing, neither too strong nor too light in their use of spirits. For the straight shooters, a long list of vodkas and whiskeys also feature prominently, as does a separate wine list. We tried and enjoyed The Hakka, The Chinese Mule, Blue Wanda, and the Polmos Cooler and can vouch for them all. The one that gave us a little trouble was the Nashi Collins, which was either poorly conceived or poorly made. Even the restaurant couldn’t give us a definitive answer, but by that point, we didn’t really mind.
APPETIZERS
Every once in a while, you try something new that leaves you asking two questions: where were you my whole life, and how do I make you stay? These were the questions running through our heads as we savoured the Edamame Truffle Dumplings. With the consistency of creamy mashed potatoes and with just the right hint of truffles, these delicately steamed dumplings reminded us of a perfect marriage between Chinese Dim Sum and Polish Pierogies – only better. We were equally surprised by the Crispy Tiger Prawns With Pandan Leaf and Wheat Flakes, not only because they were deliciously plump and juicy, but also because of their unusually sweet crust that at once provided crunch and complemented the delicate flavor of the prawns, without feeling greasy. Unfortunately we couldn’t say as much about the Salt and Pepper Squid, a fairly standard dish that came out chewy in parts and tasting of yesterday’s fryolator oil (and surprisingly was served with a sauce that tasted suspiciously “Manchurian”). Thankfully we had also ordered the Crispy Duck Roll, another item that had us thoroughly impressed with the chef’s skills. Light and crispy on the outside, the duck meat on the inside tasted both substantial yet delicate. Rarely can you eat duck and say that. And now I’ve said it.
MAINS
We normally like to order according to our own instincts and with an eye for variety, but we’re always open to emphatic suggestions. In this case, we received three: Roasted Silver Cod With Champagne and Chinese Honey, Stir-fry Tenderloin with Black Pepper Sauce, and the Hakka Braised Pork Belly I’m a sucker for the delicate taste of buttery fish with a sweet glaze so it was no surprise that we devoured our cod by the large, flakey forkful. The tenderloin was remarkably, uh, tender, but reminded me a bit too much of a gourmet steakhouse burger due to its sweet, mildly ketchupy sauce. The pork belly, however, transported me straight to China. Not only was it encased in a sweet, sticky Chinese barbeque glaze, but it also had a subtle yet distinct pungent fragrance that, for lack of a better comparison, was reminiscent of a mild “stinky tofu” that no Shiv Sagar Triple Szechuan Fried Rice will ever feature. The pork was also fatty and tender, without the chewiness that can sometimes ruin a poor preparation of belly. Throwing in our own selections, I was almost brought to tears when I discovered that Choi Sum with Oyster Sauce was prepared in all it’s simple glory: flash cooked without losing the color of the leaves or the bite of its stem. We were equally pleased with both our noodle dishes that shared the unmistakable smokiness only achieved in a screaming hot, properly seasoned wok. The Hakka Hand Pulled Noodles were delicate and fresh, while the more substantive Roasted Duck Udon Noodle in XO held up nicely to the grease and distinct flavor of the duck. Meanwhile, the Home-style Braised Aubergine was an honest and simple side dish – plump, tender and stir fried in Shanghai chili sauce.
DESSERT
I’m typically not a huge fan of Chinese deserts – in fact, it’s the only thing I’ll avoid at a Chinese restaurant (and I’ll eat pretty much anything). Luckily, Hakkasan’s takes its desert inspiration as much from London as it does from China. While we still don’t understand what the Mango Ice-cream Truffle was meant to be or taste like, the Chocolate Mousse was rich and decadent – so rich in fact, that it sits on its plate without support in a perfect tube formation – even after you’ve speared it with your spoon. In my books, the Vanilla Crème Brûlée was the clear winner – creamy and smooth, it paired perfectly with the delectable mango and ginger ice cream served alongside.
THE VERDICT
Before going any further, let’s make one thing very clear – Hakkasan is pricey. For most, ourselves included, this is not a restaurant you drop into for a casual, last minute affair. While this is to be expected from the sibling of a Michelin starred restaurant, it can nonetheless be jarring. What we didn’t expect, however, was the spottiness of the service. On several occasions, we were informed after we ordered an item that it was not, in fact, available. While this on its own is troublesome for such a pricey menu, we would expect any establishment that charges Rs. 650 for a cocktail to inform you upfront what is and isn’t available on a particular night. Hakkasan also suffers from an unusual problem in Mumbai – the food comes out too fast. Barely have you had a chance to enjoy the satisfaction of one course before the next comes piling onto your table (something other diners had pointed out to us about as well). Ultimately, however, service problems can be overcome and it was clear our servers were doing their jobs in earnest (we should also mention the very cheerful and enthusiastic management that keep a close eye on proceedings and don’t hesitate to swoop in as needed). Bandra has sorely lacked a fine dining restaurant, with good food to boot, and Hakkasan provides welcome relief to those with a special night to celebrate on this side of Mumbai (or a generous corporate expense account).
WTF is a MEAL FOR TWO?
Average Drink: Rs. 650
Average Appetizer: Rs 550 – 850+
Average Main: Rs. 650 – 2500+
(All prices as of mid 2011)
THE DETAILS
Krystal 206
Waterfield Road
Bandra West, Mumbai – 400050
Tel: +(91)-(22)-26444444, 26444445